A Way of Looking at a Contradiction

i.

It’s a sweltering day and Danube, striding from east to west, cannot contain the heat. I climb the hill to see for myself this beautiful contradiction they speak of.

ii.

Despite best efforts of etymologists, both amateur and professional, the origins of words remain speculative. Unfazed, Buda and Pest stand side by side, their contrasting architectures creating a harmonious visual juxtaposition, and as they strive to find a middle ground.

iii.

But the ground is constantly moving as it carries water, serving as the life force for countries in the centre, south, east, and all the way to the Black Sea.

iv.

I feel young as I hike up the Gellért Hill for an aerial view of the city, only to be surprised by the imposing bishop, St Gellért Sagredo, holding the crucifix. We won’t get into the details of what he is doing here, for it’s all in the history books.

v.

As a Jo’burger, I can easily see the invisible divide positioned just behind the historical landmarks between the haves and have-nots, without relying on Danube as a reference.

vi.

But if you are true to your word that you’re a traveller, not a tourist, you’re going to appreciate uniqueness – District VIII by day. It’s what surreal movies are made of. Pick a direction and proceed, and you’ll encounter a homeless guy flipping, opening and shutting trash cans with vigour. On the other end, a just-turned forty gal claims the entire restaurant for a celebration. It’s Budapest by Night, you see!

vii.

Locals reckon Pest is where you eat, drink and be merry after you’ve wandered down the Buda hills. But I dare say you can be merry on both sides —

viii.

Fortunately, you don’t need to figure out which side of the river you’re on. ‘Cause delicately balanced glasses overflowing with Prosecco, in the middle and along Danube river, will reward you with clarity.

ix.

If you appreciate the flavour of fermented grapes, you’ll indulge in the aroma and rely on Bolt to get you back safely to your abode, all while listening to the French exchange between the cyclists and motorists.

x.

At Üllői út Avenue, I dodge things leaking and stamkoks as I try to find my way home. Yes, when you’ve been on the road for seven weeks, home is where the candle is. But praise be to the artists who sprinkle a touch of pot-pourri to drench the stench, creating a lasting impression on the visitor!

xi.

A way of looking at a contradiction is not from envy-inducing Instagram photos or leaders sliding down the pole, dirty-dancing, but with curiosity. As William Blake once wrote, “Do what you will, this world’s a fiction and is made up of contradiction.”

xii.

I feel old as I call it a night, and after watching the taxi driver texting his girlfriend or new Mrs Right, all while skillfully navigating the busy city streets. What is his secret? There’s no time to find out. But one thing is certain, this city really grows on you. ‘Cause it embraces its imperfections while showcasing its photogenic side.

xiii.

A thing of beauty is [not] a joy forever. But as a visitor, you’ll come to appreciate its increasing loveliness. Budapest is a symphony of contradictions. I collect this wisdom and pack it in a fridge magnet, as a reminder to embrace both my flaws and beauty.

Elisabeth Bridge connecting Buda to Pest

PS. The last post of the series, A Way of Looking at Enchantment, is coming up next Sunday. If you’re new to this series, A Way of Looking at Autumn’s First Breath is a good place to begin.

Khaya Ronkainen
Khaya Ronkainen is a writer, poet and creative professional. Her blog focuses on all things poetry and creative nonfiction.

25 Comments

  1. Ah, Blake. Thanks for this insightful post and for helping me to understand his statement “without contraries is no progression” more clearly

  2. Awww! thank you Mariss for reading. Blake had a unique vision for perceiving ordinary things. Indeed, his philosophy on contraries offers us another way of seeing and embracing it all.

  3. Using Buda and Pest as real physical contradictions in what most of us view to be a connected city name, “Budapest” and forming your thoughts around that premise is unique and effective! What an exciting and thought provoking vacation you had – I am sooooo impressed (and a bit envious!) 😉

  4. Love the idea of a photogenetic place being more than Instagram dirty-dancing!! “this beautiful contradiction” that is life is what makes it so worthwhile. Lovely post, Linda xx

  5. Outstanding presentation, Khaya. A joy to learn of another place as told through a poet’s eyes. Thank you.

  6. Thanks so much, Rajani. I really appreciate you taking time to read. And it was such a pleasure to read and experience your poem again, and see Budapest through your eyes. Your introspection, coupled with the vivid imagery, makes for a compelling read. Thank you for sharing the link. By the way, I really loved your series, A STORY IN MANY UNEQUAL PARTS, SOME MISSING. <3

  7. Many thanks, Rebecca. That distinction between the two is the essence of travelling for me. Because the interaction with locals, staying at their homes, eating their food and hearing their stories, among other things, is an incredibly thrilling and rewarding experience. It reveals our shared humanity.

  8. Yes, I didn’t parse the difference before, although I’ve lived it. I agree. We prefer slow travel, staying at local lodging and eating the exciting new local foods.

  9. I’m learning to see again. And it brings me joy to learn that this way of looking is effective. Thank you, Laura! <3 I have to admit, I’m pretty impressed myself that I embarked on this adventure. Given my health struggles over the last few years, I never thought I would still have the strength to go backpacking and continue to work while doing so.

    But it wasn’t all smooth sailing. Besides living with the bare minimum, the practicality of managing work logistics while travelling can be extremely frustrating. I’ve noticed that people who often do this (digital nomads), talk little about the adverse effects on the physical, mental, and social well-being. Maybe this is a post for another day...

  10. It’s my pleasure to share these snippets as I too learn about these places. As always, I appreciate you reading and your uplifting comments, Michele!

  11. It’s so true, it makes life worthwhile. By accepting this paradox, we can experience the full joys of life while also acknowledging its challenges. Thanks so much Linda for your visit and reading. Much appreciated! And oh, the “dirty dancing” part pertains to certain actions by some European political leaders. But I will not mention names here… 😀

  12. What an excellent read, Khaya. I loved this quote because there is indeed a distinction between the two.

    ‘But if you are true to your word that you’re a traveller, not a tourist, you’re going to appreciate uniqueness.’

    It seems I was born with wanderlust in my veins, so I long for ‘anywhere but here’ most of the time. It has been, and will always be, an internal battle for me. When I made my lifelong dream come true last year by travelling Europe for 5 1/2 months, I did it with intention and a desire to be a part of the community wherever I was. It was the most incredible year of my life, and it has changed me in ways I simply couldn’t have imagined. I enjoyed reading about Budapest and your experience there. As usual, you presented it in a way that is just so cool and beautiful and I loved every word!

  13. Hooray for making your lifelong dream of travelling come true! I’m incredibly impressed by your 5 1/2-month trip around Europe. It takes an adventurous person to be away from home that long. You’re right, travelling has a way of transforming us, particularly when we travel with purpose rather than just sightseeing. I also understand perfectly well the desire of wanting to belong to a community wherever you are. And it’s wonderful to meet and connect with other kindred spirits. May we always be travellers! And who knows, maybe our paths will cross one day!

    Many thanks, Tanya. I really appreciate you taking the time to read and also sharing your travel experiences. It makes this more of a conversation. I’m looking forward to reading about your adventures, too. <3

Do leave a trace!