A Way of Looking at a Contradiction

i.

It’s a sweltering day and Danube, striding from east to west, cannot contain the heat. I climb the hill to see for myself this beautiful contradiction they speak of.

ii.

Despite best efforts of etymologists, both amateur and professional, the origins of words remain speculative. Unfazed, Buda and Pest stand side by side, their contrasting architectures creating a harmonious visual juxtaposition, and as they strive to find a middle ground.

iii.

But the ground is constantly moving as it carries water, serving as the life force for countries in the centre, south, east, and all the way to the Black Sea.

iv.

I feel young as I hike up the Gellért Hill for an aerial view of the city, only to be surprised by the imposing bishop, St Gellért Sagredo, holding the crucifix. We won’t get into the details of what he is doing here, for it’s all in the history books.

v.

As a Jo’burger, I can easily see the invisible divide positioned just behind the historical landmarks between the haves and have-nots, without relying on Danube as a reference.

vi.

But if you are true to your word that you’re a traveller, not a tourist, you’re going to appreciate uniqueness – District VIII by day. It’s what surreal movies are made of. Pick a direction and proceed, and you’ll encounter a homeless guy flipping, opening and shutting trash cans with vigour. On the other end, a just-turned forty gal claims the entire restaurant for a celebration. It’s Budapest by Night, you see!

vii.

Locals reckon Pest is where you eat, drink and be merry after you’ve wandered down the Buda hills. But I dare say you can be merry on both sides —

viii.

Fortunately, you don’t need to figure out which side of the river you’re on. ‘Cause delicately balanced glasses overflowing with Prosecco, in the middle and along Danube river, will reward you with clarity.

ix.

If you appreciate the flavour of fermented grapes, you’ll indulge in the aroma and rely on Bolt to get you back safely to your abode, all while listening to the French exchange between the cyclists and motorists.

x.

At Üllői út Avenue, I dodge things leaking and stamkoks as I try to find my way home. Yes, when you’ve been on the road for seven weeks, home is where the candle is. But praise be to the artists who sprinkle a touch of pot-pourri to drench the stench, creating a lasting impression on the visitor!

xi.

A way of looking at a contradiction is not from envy-inducing Instagram photos or leaders sliding down the pole, dirty-dancing, but with curiosity. As William Blake once wrote, “Do what you will, this world’s a fiction and is made up of contradiction.”

xii.

I feel old as I call it a night, and after watching the taxi driver texting his girlfriend or new Mrs Right, all while skillfully navigating the busy city streets. What is his secret? There’s no time to find out. But one thing is certain, this city really grows on you. ‘Cause it embraces its imperfections while showcasing its photogenic side.

xiii.

A thing of beauty is [not] a joy forever. But as a visitor, you’ll come to appreciate its increasing loveliness. Budapest is a symphony of contradictions. I collect this wisdom and pack it in a fridge magnet, as a reminder to embrace both my flaws and beauty.

Elisabeth Bridge connecting Buda to Pest

PS. The last post of the series, A Way of Looking at Enchantment, is coming up next Sunday. If you’re new to this series, A Way of Looking at Autumn’s First Breath is a good place to begin.

A Way of Looking at a Mountain

i.

When I step outside in the early morning, I experience a strong sense of familiarity. It’s not déjà vu, but an involuntary memory triggered by the sight of mountains that brings back recollections of my childhood.

ii.

My mouth stretches into a huge smile. The sight of mountains after such a long time evokes a mix of excitement and anticipation similar to the joy of reuniting with friends or family.

iii.

I rush inside to grab my phone, return promptly to take a snapshot and send it to my brother along with a message that says, “Check this out!” Without waiting for his response, I run back inside again to wake up my travelling companion. He comes out grudgingly, questioning the reason behind all the buzz.“You’ve got to see this!” I say.

iv.

Like watchful observers, mountains stand tall and silent, commanding attention with their majestic presence as the fog clears. The sunrise, tranquillity, and setting all combine to create a vivid scene straight out of a novel…I kid you not!

v.

Yesterday evening, we arrived in this charming small village nestled in the northern Slovak region of Liptov. The region offers stunning views of the surrounding mountainous landscape of the Tatras. It’s a haven for nature lovers, with its rolling and scenic skiing, hiking and cycling trails. This is happiness.

vi.

Within a couple of days, we adjust to the villagers’ leisurely routine of early bedtimes and early mornings. Did I mention, the village shop closes at 5 pm on weekdays and at 11 am on weekends? This is a reminder, rest is important. With the bus running only three times a day to town, tough luck if you forgot to buy something or woke up late. Another reminder, you have everything you need.

vii.

Liptovský Mikuláš is a blend of history, nature, and cultural richness. There is so much to do, eat and see here. But it’s the omnipresence of mountains that leaves me gazing upwards, searching for metaphors.

viii.

From their foothills, high and low Tatras seem daunting—monuments of stone and time. Yet every mountain tells a story of determination, resilience, and the ultimate reward—the peak and a view of infinite possibilities.

ix.

A way of looking at a mountain is to sit quietly, allowing a sense of calm to wash over you as you contemplate your connection with it, and marvel at its grandeur.

x.

Looking at a mountain reframes whatever we’ve been socialised to believe or told about what success should look like. It’s about acknowledging the power of a pause, instead of constantly climbing and striving for excellence.

xi.

I loosen my shoulders and breathe, for I’m under no obligation to conquer a mountain. With my gaze fixed on the mountain, I observe all that is worthy of attention and find solace.

xii.

Mountain rock cracks are like the scars we carry, proof of struggles faced and overcome. Yet the mountain stands tall, and so can we.

xiii.

While society preys on our vulnerabilities, a mountain serves as a reminder of our power. Our worthiness doesn’t depend on proving anything, but on just being. It’s our birthright.

A village in Liptovský Mikuláš

PS. A new post, A Way of Looking at Contradiction, is coming up next Sunday. If you’re new to this series, A Way of Looking at Autumn’s First Breath is a good place to begin.

A Way of Looking at Interconnectedness

i.

If you open a map, you will see a web of roads, all leading to Krakow. I can easily see why. The fusion of medieval fairy tale and present-day living is a story filled with vivid hues, a tapestry of cultures, and an insatiable sense of wonder. This city beckons you to come in.

ii.

Krakow brims with places of great importance. Even though slow travel means staying longer in a place, making thoughtful decisions about what to see and why remains crucial.

iii.

I hear of a place where saints, ghosts and demons, each go about their mysterious affairs. Some claim this underworld reaches depths of over 200 kilometres. The legend captivates me until I realise I prefer not to uncover all the hidden secrets in this place, so I only scratch the surface.

iv.

The goal is not to accumulate more knowledge, but to understand what lessons we’ve overlooked from history. ‘Cause each day, we awaken to a world that is extremely disturbing; old war, new war— To what extent can evil and crime thrive?

v.

Beyond the rich artistic life and cocktail drinks, there’s a place both sacred and haunted. A place that both questions and answers. I settle for it.

vi.

My understanding of the holocaust comes from books, movies, and glimpses of archival photographs I once saw at a museum in Cape Town. But “Seeing Auschwitz” or rather the idea of visiting Auschwitz-Birkenau in person is deeply unsettling. That’s why I’m up in the middle of the night, googling what to wear when visiting a concentration and extermination camp. I fuss about showing up appropriately.

vii.

Daring, but not yet brave, I set off to a place of silent contemplation. The sombre bus ride to the memorial site makes me question my choice of places to visit. Then I have a moment of insight: I will not complain about my discomfort; these people endured the most extreme conditions.

viii.

The answer to the question, to what extent can evil and crime thrive, stares back at me. Portraits of men, women and children with names, who were baptised in numbers, hang on the walls. A particular face, Martha’s, a young woman with her chin slightly tilted upwards as she looked straight at the camera, captures my attention. It’s a combination of grace and defiance, acting normal in these abnormal circumstances. It’s almost as if she’s refusing to let her challenges define her or to be seen as a victim. She brings an awareness to the good qualities and values of others around her, even in these dehumanising conditions.

ix.

As I walk through the gas chamber ruins, crematoria, and barracks, I carry Martha’s strength with me. This is neither to minimise their extreme suffering nor accommodate the holocaust, but my way of asset framing. Because in the end, everyone who survived or fell victim to the holocaust, re-emerges as a victor. Even today, we’re still eager to learn about or from them.

x.

Beyond race, class and other social identity markers, we are all human. It shouldn’t be difficult to put ourselves in someone else’s shoes.

xi.

A way of looking at interconnectedness is to see our own reflection in others, witness our humanness, the basic goodness that connects us all. And being interconnected doesn’t mean losing ourselves, because we each have individual strengths, hopes and dreams.

xii.

Beyond the profoundly moving and educational experience, Auschwitz reveals a shocking truth. It’s possible to be involved in genocide without harbouring hatred towards anyone. Think Hedwig in the movie, The Zone of Interest, who dedicates her time tending the garden of their idyllic home right next to the camp, pretending not to hear the gunshots, screams, and the sounds of trains bringing more people!

xiii.

Auschwitz-Birkenau is not a must-see or a place where one visits to pose for selfies. Being confronted with that kind of human suffering is an out-of-body experience. But it is a place everyone should visit, at least once in their lifetime. It is a reminder to view the world through the lens of interconnectedness, the state of being mutually related or connected.

Memorial and Museum Auschwitz-Birkenau in Krakow

PS. A new post “A Way of Looking at a Mountain” is coming up next Sunday. If you’re new to this series, A Way of Looking at Autumn’s First Breath is a good place to begin.